Trailside Gourmet

The view from table number 2

Clair d’Loon Restaurant

3210 Denali Street- Suite 8

Anchorage, Alaska

(907) 743- 9899

Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Dinner: Wednesday-Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to close

Appetizers: $9.50-$14.50

Entrees: $13.50-$36

www.clairdloon.com

     Ah, summer in Alaska; long days slide quietly into long evenings. These tranquil evenings seem to last forever. Dinner starts later this time of year and takes on a leisurely pace as we enjoy the sun’s glow that carries us into the twilight of the solstice.

Have you ever listened to the song of the loon on one of these, the most treasured of evenings? Once heard it is never forgotten. The haunting call of this regal bird causes one to pause and reflect, compelling you not to speak until another chorus echoes out across a lake.

Away from the harried pace of everyday Anchorage on Denali Street is Clair d’Loon Restaurant. The ambience is tranquil and the seating is comfortably arranged, making some tables seem almost a setting unto themselves. Request table No. 2. Surrounded on three sides by glass, this is the coveted spot here.

The idea of Karen Lesko, owner of Clair d’loon Restaurant, was started at the urging of her peers. She was cooking for her friends and gaining a reputation for being a skilled chef. People she knew wanted to enjoy her creations on a regular basis. The opportunity took her by surprise when a real estate agent told her of a location for sale.

“I jumped in with both feet.” Lesko said.

The mood here is relaxed and the pace leisurely. If you do not have an hour-and-a-half to dine, inform the staff of your timeline and your meal will be served accordingly.

The fare at Clair d’loon is, for the most part, a reflection of our traditional Alaskan plan. Halibut and salmon headline the menu. Topping the scale at $36, the roast New Zealand lamb crowns the offerings. Pan-roasted chicken and several notable pasta dishes round out your choice of entrée. In addition, daily specials are offered and vary with the seasons and available fresh local products.

All dishes are a la carte, meaning your selections are ordered separately.

I had the Alaska smoked salmon pasta for $16.95. This dish is rich. Chunks of salmon in a white sauce with dill and asparagus make for an interesting blend, and very filling.

With our salmon season in full swing, I asked — and was reluctantly provided — with this recipe for you to enjoy.

Firecracker shrimp

The warm pecan chevre salad is good. Although not big enough to be a diner entrée, combined with an appetizer it could make for a light and appealing meal.

And that appetizer, in my opinion, should be the firecracker shrimp. Half a dozen shrimp in a peach schnapps reduction with wasabi cocktail sauce. The wasabi sauce is a hit. You expect a little zing, but the flavor that lingers is surprising. It sparkles on your palate and then slowly and smoothly sets, just like the sun in July.

If you have never been, and want to test the water, than lunch is probably the best way to start. Lesko understands that your time during midday is at a premium. I went undercover and put it to the test. I was in and out in 32 minutes.

The menu for lunch is of moderate price and is, in a word, simple. A panini sandwich special is offered daily and the open face crab sandwich would be another good choice.

Clair d’ Loon has what is probably the largest selection of champagne and sparkling wines in Anchorage. The wine list, designed by Hans Kruger, is very extensive and worthy of a detailed inspection.

For your sweet tooth, a great selection of desserts — including a birch syrup sundae — await. The syrup is produced locally, and the decadent dessert is a favorite of many regular patrons.

Clair d’Loon is an upscale establishment with a relaxed, unique, Tuscan-like atmosphere.

Summer is in full swing and the evenings where meant to be enjoyed. Raise a toast to the sun as it makes its slow retreat on these, the most special of Alaskan evenings.

Clair d’ Loon Restaurant

Fettuccine with Smoked Salmon and Asparagus in a Lemon Dill Cream Sauce

Ingredients:

1lb. Asparagus, rinsed, tough ends trimmed, spears cut diagonally one inch in length.

12 oz. dried fettuccine

2 TBS unsalted cream butter

2 Shallots, finely chopped (or red onion)

2/3 cup whipping cream

2 tsp shredded lemon peel

4 TBS lemon juice

4 oz sliced smoked salmon or lox cut into strips

2 TBS fresh dill

Salt and fresh ground pepper

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Procedure:

Cook cut asparagus in water until firm. Rinse with cold water and set aside. Cook fettuccini until al dente, rinse under cold water and set aside. Melt unsalted butter in medium saucepan. Add shallots and sauté until translucent. Add all ingredients, reserving the Parmesan for garnish. Heat until warmed through.

Finish with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Enjoy